Josef Rakoncaj

Josef "Rak" Rakoncaj (born 6 April 1951) is a Czech mountaineer, mountaineering coach, author of books on mountaineering and also an entrepreneur in the field of special clothing and equipment for trekking and mountaineering expeditions.

He was born in Dvůr Králové nad Labem. He started with climbing on the local sandstone in Bohemian Paradise, where he has registered 54 First ascents. Internationally he is known for being the first person in the world to climb the summit of K2 (the second highest mountain in the world) twice – in 1983 and 1986. For the first of these two successful ascents, Rakoncaj was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (31 July 1983). Three years later, on 5 July 1986, he reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition.

Together with Radek Jaroš he is one of the most successful Czech climbers based on the number of successful ascents of eight-thousanders. He has never used supplemental bottled oxygen, as he considers that unsportsmanlike. He has written several books about his climbing career.

He is married, has son Lukáš and daughter Lucie. His interests include piloting ultralight aircraft. Provided by Wikipedia